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The window sills were cut out using a chop saw, a table saw (shown) and a hand saw. I made a notch where the cedar siding would slip into on the underside of the sill. The outer edge of the sill was sloped at a 11 degree angle to allow the water to run off.

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The sills were then primed with a high quality exterior oil based primer and the painted with a latex paint. The flat part of the sill was painted white to match the head and side jams, while the outer edge of the sill and the "horns" on each side are an bluegreen.

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You can see here that the side and head jams have been cut to provide a tounge that will mate with a groove in head and side casings that will cover the outer exposed edge.

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Look closer and note the details intended to make these windows keep the water out: there is metal flashing above where the head casing will go; the flashing tape that seals the pink foam insulation and the caulking around the jams.

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A detail of how the siding was notched and also how it mates into the notch underneath the sill.

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Here I am making a shutter for a window. Two cedar 2x6 are rabbeted and paired and the covered with tounge and groove cedar which was attached using 1 5/8 inch stainless steel screws.

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The edges a made pretty with the jointer.

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They are hung with hinges that I bought in Zakopane, Poland. Next I will be making my stained glass windows.

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Building my door made good use of the jointer to straighten the lumber.

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The planer helped get them all the same thickness.

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I used a router to make nice edges on the battens.

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Here I am putting it all together using clamps. The vertical boards are called planks and the horizontal are battens. This an old, rustic style of door that is very solid and strong.

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The door was primed on both sides to seal out water.

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The interior was painted aquamarine.

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The exterior received tounge and groove cedar siding.

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Siding was applied with special nails, the same as used on the rest of the exterior siding. I predrilled holes.

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Drove the *almost* flush.

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Then used a nailset to drive it the rest of the way. This to avoid hammer marks on the cedar. On the door, unlike the rest of the siding, I mainly set the nails in the tounges so they would be covered.

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The stainless steel nails are 3 1/2 inches long, have ringed shanks to avoin pullout, and small heads that textured to reduce reflection.

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I have a cutout for the "speakeasy". I have rabbeted it on the router and set a piece of glass in it, sealed the edges with a clear silicone caulk.

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And mount the grill.

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I have made a door threshold and use a generous amount of caulk to seal out water from entering between the tile and wood.

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The door is hung...

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Detail of hardware